Hunting Education

Last Update: 04/02/2000

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Our own experiences!

Our own experiences. We began to train our dogs in hunting, when Elsa was 15 months old, or as our little she-devil "Wilma" came in our house. She was about 12 weeks old, when we put the first foodtrace. You have to start first with foodtrace and only later with sweat. With the foodtrace you take e.g. a piece green stomache of the cow, cattle lung, or something different (later then a hare and other animals), binds the lounge or stomache to a thread and pulls it on the thread for approx. 20 m in one direction. Later you can strike also hooks. Because of the end the dragged piece is to the track as reward, or the hare and a reward for the dog. That is, if you drag a hare, the dog shall not eat it, but only the reward:). It is best, if another puts the track. That track-casually hides itself at some distance of the hare and puts before its hiding place a second hare (or whatever he laid out: you need always two equal pieces). If the dog not at all really followed the game track, but the track of the tracemaker, it will let the hares be situated left and that track-casually to its hiding place will follow. There it is then recompenced by the second piece game, because it made nothing false: you must only know it stop, according to which he looked up. Begin early to observe your dog on the track. If you know, where the track runs, know also whether your dog is even on the track or not. How does it behave, if it lost the track? What does he do, if he follows the track exactly? Become acquainted with your dog exactly! If later, in a check or with a correct track search, also you do not know, where the track runs, Ihne will be useful this knowledge of the behavior of your dog. We put the welding tracks also with cattle blood. For a welding track you need blood, e.g. cattle blood, which is dripped with a syringe or a washing bottle. One can dab the track also with a small dry rot, which is fastened to a stick. That is fewer close-to-reality, for the dog however more simply, because no drops remain hanging, approximately further above on blades of grass, and because small soil and grass violations is develop also the dog so in a forced manner to keep the nose always close at the soil. With checks the track is however dripped. One puts the welding track at the beginning of perhaps about 20 meters long and dead-straight. Later then it becomes longer, and if the dog already white, on which it arrives, one can insert also times a curve, late hook. One should mark the start (the Wundbett) with a branch, so that one also regains the welding track. That corresponds to the place, in which the game was met. At the beginning of the welding track you drip somewhat more bloods and put a branch on this place, the point shows toward the track process. To the end of the welding track a reward must. One winds these if possible in something in, which smells after the animal species, whose blood one (thus e.g. a piece of cattle cover) sprayed. Best it works at the food time, thus if the dog has hunger. At the start you do not leave the welding track untouched so for a long time, later you wait one 3-4 hours, before you lead the dog on her. The associated ritual is important: the dog must itself placings, while you interest much the " first shot place " examined, in order to arouse the interest of the dog. You are calm and concentrated and try you to transfer this peace to your dog. Welding is for the dog much exerting. Then he gets his trace collier created, which he carries only with the welding. In this way he knows, what is coming now. To the trace collier a welding line fastened (length at least 6 m). then leads one the dog with the words "look up wounded" on the track, praises it, if it remains on it and attributes it again to the track, if it any longer not interested in it or lost it. The most important is: You must make everything that you do, correctly tasty for the dog. You are calm and concentrated and try you to transfer this peace to your dog. Welding is for the dog much exerting. It is important to wake the interest of the dog. Since the RR is generally very "hungry", that can be done quite well, if success exists in something edible one. We preserve in the distance of or two weeks, so that it does not become boring the dog.
Now we come to the retrieving. We began thereby, to practice the apport. That begins the word " retrieving " with a " seat ", then, while the hand shifts the leather pouch or Apportl in the muzzle. The dog must learn to hold and drop on command it. With difficulty, with difficulty! A small leather bag or an old sock is recommended, filled with something good smelling (old cheese, sausage, meat, cookies ....). With our hare from the deep-freeze that folds quite well. Only the foodtrace with the hare, at the end is situated the hare and a piece of sausage, then one takes the hares and delays him to her, with the word " retrieving ". Functioned anyhow with our small dog, whether it functions with their, it must try you. There are no generally accepted rules for it. The most important is: Motivation, fun, interest wake. The RR is relatively stubborn and does not do not gladly the same five times. He must understand, why he does. Itnever functions by force. A little obligation may be, because it is to do something, but not in the false place or too much. Each dog, each RR is different, you must become creative, for your dog be sensitive. It is not bad to make once an error. If the same errors separate to make again and again, is bad.
The rush-rubbed is a large problem. They must be always watchful and observe your dog. If it begins to be interested too much in tracks it is surely better, taking him on a lean, to let and him run only where few game is. You will notice that, if you observe your dog.
In the forest linen we take our dogs basically on the lean, because the danger that the dog meets on game, is larger than in the free field. The hunt impulse was formed with Elsa at least with 15 months, therefore we came at all on the idea to train it in order to be able to control it better. Only as she has found a number of chickens in the wood as she rummaged. And was thereafter before excitation trembling beside us. The second adventure was that a hare jumped up beside us and Elsa was 10 minutes away to hunt him. She came back breathing very fast and completely pumped out. Many hunters don't understand it as a joke, and I would not put the hand for everyone in the fire that he does not shoot at a hunting dog. Therefore you have an interview with your local resident game tenant, because he shoots surely fewer fast a dog, which he knows, and he can give you advice, where you can let your dog run and where rather not. Many people are very ugly to hunters and place themselves on stubborn, your game tenant therefore will be grateful for someone, which along-thinks and sense of responsibility shows. Ask it, where you can let your hunting dog run. Perhaps he says to you, also where fewer game is. With most people one can talk. A hunted wild pig costs by the way that hunter, to that it shoots around 400 German DM, therefore you can imagine that he is not on the fact out that your dog hunts one:)) Also deer or other clever game costs rather much cash. If you acquire a hunting license, you are surely more tolerantly treated by hunters, likewise your dog. One is seriousness-taken with so an exotic dog race then even if one leads its hunting dog as a hunter in hunting. We ourselves want to make next year the hunting license:)). They can present also only as hunters the dog on a check certified of the JGHV. If you have good contacts to hunters you may get help for example in order to hunted booty like hare, ducks, pheasants, ducks etc.. In our deep-freeze are situated some of it. Keep cool:)): you put that evenly into the lower section. On the day, on which you want to make foodtrace, thaw a hare or something else out, in order to put the track then in the evening. Do not begin with feather/spring game: it is more difficult for the dog with feathers/springs in the muzzle! One can make also with an older dog something in this direction, he however to train will be surely more difficult. It is better to begin if possible than puppy in order to coin/shape the dog on the nose work. Elsa makes everything which Wilma does Wilma, but with clearly smaller interest. Nevertheless we do it, and I think, it am worthwhile myself also with it. A further large topic is the obedience: Practice with your dog daily. If you go strolling times, leave it to placings. The coolsten dogs are by the way the dogs of the homeless people, the more your dog become acquainted with, the more intelligent and safer he will become.
With the water work we want to begin, if it becomes warmer. Some of the shorthair dogs do not love to go into the water . It is discussed that there the genetics plays an important role.

Rhodesian Ridgeback hunting working society

contacts:

Leader: Uwe Helfert, Tel: 05601/2721

Vize-Leader
Ulli Schnitzer

Hunting agitation: Ewald Klum, Tel: 05622/6117

effect-pedigree: Helga J�rgens, Tel/Fax: 05074/924097

Finances: Axel Horstmann, Tel: 02056/3251

Allgemeine Grundlagen der Hundeerziehung ( general dog education),

besonders empfohlen von den Praktikern aus der Arbeitsgemeinschaft Jagdhund

Bailey, Gwen: Sprich die Sprache deines Hundes. M�ller R�schlikon, 1998 (Speak the language of your dog)

Bloch, G�nther: Der Wolf im Hundepelz, Westkreuz Verlag, 1997 (the wolf in the sheep coat)

Del Amo, Celina: Spielschule f�r Hunde, 1998 (play school for dogs)

Weiterf�hrende Literatur ( more literature)

Hupe, Dieter: Guter Jagdhund, treuer Freund. Landwirtschaftsverlag, 1999 ( good hunting dog, good friend)

Klinkenberg, Tillmann: Der folgsame Hund. Natur Buch Verlag, 1999 ( the obedience dog)

Markmann, Hans J�rgen: Vom Welpen zum Jagdhelfer, Paul Parey, 1990 (from puppy to hunting helper)

Widmer, Peter A.: Hunde verstehen, f�rdern, f�hren, M�ller R�schlikon, 1997 ( understanding dogs, educating, leading them)

When shall I begin to educate my dog?

The education starts when the puppy arrives in your house, hunting education you can start with 12 weeks, with making traces with lounge or stomache from the cow..

What is the favorite of the RR?

he has an excellent nose, is excellent in blood trace, is very fast in hunting, is very good in finding an animal, alive or not.

What doesn't he like?

Some of the RR don't love water, some don't love to retrieve.

How does the RR react on force?

unsteady, he refuses!!!

What to start with?

Mit feedtracks, , preexercises to retrieve.

How can I control the hunting instinct of my RR?

with a long lean, or with a little stone catapult.

what shall I do, if I own more than one?

to walk seperately or you take one on the lean.sometimes we let them run together, but only were we know that there is less game.

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